Apparently I can remove the control arm first then the ball joint with
the wheel hanging from the shock tower, stab it and put it back that
way by putting the rear bolts into the control arm, attaching the ball
joint, then jacking up the ball joint to line up the bolt holes for the
wheel end of the control arm.
I've never seen a car where even if you jack it up so the wheel is hanging as far as the strut will go, that there won't stillbe lots of spring tension on the lower control arm. You sure they're not playing a joke on you?
I knew a kid who was starting out as a mechanic and he told me stories of how guys in the next bay would steer him in the wrong direction just for their amusement.
than the ball joint. I have reattached a ball joint before with a floor jack on wheels, and a comealong, jacking up and tightinign the comealong attached to the jack base to line it up and hitting it with a hammer until it was just right, lowering it down. That was on a small dodge neon.
The springs on a caravan are a bit stiffer :-P So after hours wasted of reattempting this on the van with unideal tug points for the comealong and what not, I have a set of spring compressors secured and we will be redoing it tomorrow.
I don't remember if i told this story on the first post but the van in question was wrecked into a curb which pushed the right front wheel into the transaxle, very hard and when it came back out the transmission side of the half shaft disconnected and tore the boot to pieces and slung grease everywehre. Fun stuff. I also still have to drop the oil pan because chances are the pickup is busted/cracked as the pan is beat to shit and the power steering pump got a hit on the shaft when the engine bounced back which broke the seal.
I'm also doing this for work for free for a friend who has little on hand money at the moment, and it doesn't help that he hasn't a vehicle to drive to work now.
Everything on the serpintine belt isn't running (which is everything) because the power steering pulley which is made of plastic broke off and we can't get the old metal hub off until we get a pulley puller tomorrow. In the meantime I tried to move the car to a better workplace without an alternator, charged the battery to a decent charge, lowered it down, backed it down the hill, and put it in drive to go up into the garage. I floored it and the engine accellerated to about 1200 RPM and the car started rolling downhill :-P
Eventually with some pushing and floorboarding we got it the 12 feet up into the garage. I think it wasn't detonating well because it was running the ignition coil from a battery with no alternator but the lights were working well so who knows what else could be wrong.
More likely some other doohonkey was confusing the computer because it wasn't running.
I just read yesterday than if you lose an o2 sensor, you should (on my gti) disconnect the battery so the ignition computer loses all its history so when you replace it, it can figure everything out fresh, but until it does, it runs really badly.
Haven't done this yet, but I'll let you know if that's what happens
Anybody happen to have that weird VW tool part number that allows me to get the o2 sensor off without breaking it?
The transmission computer was not allowing the engine to exceed some retarded low RPM because some electronic harness was disconnected. It was also rather low on fluid once we were able to properly check/leave the engine running long enough to warm it up to operating temperature. Now we have to find a way to straighten the frame as the right wheel is about 2 inches towards the rear of the car and while it drives okay even at highway speeds the steering wheel is off by around 90 degrees and we are told it won't accept alignment.
One of my friends has an idea to fix it using such sophisticated equipment as a large tractor, heavy gauge chain, and a large tree in their front yard, but i'm thinking this isn't such a good idea. Not that if it screws it up anymore it can really hurt though, he tells me he and his dad have actually successfully done this sort of thing before O.o
I think you really need a frame bender. Or rather, to go to a body shop and use one for a little while. I've never heard of a case where it comes out 'right' though. The car will drive fine, but it will never be like factory.
But I gather you're not looking for that.
gm will count opel since its a 100% daughter.
Opel does much of the european car stuff from product development to planning the production lines.
In germany there are at least 3 big factories. Ah, GM + Opel has been for 80 years now.
And now, to give everyone a bit a laugh....
Serbia bids farewell to Yugo
The last Yugo, once the pride of communist Yugoslavia’s automobile industry, will roll off its Serbian production line Thursday in the central town of Kragujevac.
I honestly thought the Yugo was no longer being made about 5-10 years ago - I guess still in Europe.