I plan to have an electrician take care of the power. I have also found a few sites mentioning close to the situation I have (mosly bbs sites)
The hot water I think will be easiest. I have a hot spigot in the basement, under the dishwasher site I plan to use directly to the dishwasher. Well, not exactly under, but I will extend it ~3 feet closer. Then add a new valve and attach the braided hose there (using a 60" or 72" hose)
The drain I'm still wrestling with. There is a capped T in the basement (I think the washer used to go overhead to that T. I've seen most dishwashers use an air-gap. I'd have to see if that would fit by the "T". I could in theory run that hose under the floor up to the sink, then use a normal sink attachment, but that would probably add 3-4 feet onto the hose. I do at least want to measure that one, because I don't want to go over 10' for the discharge hose.
So if you have a short circuit, that will protect you. The GFCI detects leakage to ground by comparing current flowing in the hot wire with current flowing in the neutral wire. If these don't match, even by a little bit, then the current must be going somewhere else.. to ground. Like for example, through a person holding a hair dryer on a wet floor. The current flow is well below the circuit capacity, so a regular breaker would never trip. The AFCI detects arcing (a bad connection) which would not trip a regular breaker nor a GFCI. I think it works by detecting (relatively) high frequency noise on the line.
So each of these three things protects against a different kind of fault that the other wouldn't detect. But there are combined units.. a GFCI circuit breaker protects against overcurrent and ground fault.
Eventually I guess they will have circuit breaker sized units that combine all three functions.. if they can make it fit.
Mon 04 Jun 2007 09:01:46 AM EDT from IGnatius T Foobar@uncnsrdProbably -- It shouldn't take that much more to extend the pipes up through the floor. Still struggling with what to do with the drain hose. It has to have an air gap of some sort to prevent backflow. If I go under the floor to the sink it may be over 10 feet. I'm afraid the dishwasher may not have a strong enough pump to go over 10 feet.
Running a braided hose between floors is probably a building code violation.
Sun 03 Jun 2007 11:33:19 PM EDT from IGnatius T Foobar@uncnsrdGot it - thanks, guys!
Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor. You've seen them -- they have a red "Test" and black "Reset" button on them. They shut the power off in the event of any electricity flowing to ground. In practice this means that if electricity and water come into contact with each other, it'll shut off; for example, if you drop your hair dryer in the tub, or if your dishwasher malfunctions and spews water on the electric part of the appliance, etc.
When I told him I'd be putting in a new outlet for the pump, he specified *no* GFCI for just that reason -- too many false trips.
Speaking of which, we just had the first annual maintenance for our septic since we had the new "White Knight" system installed last year. This thing really works!! The water level in the tank is right where it should be, at the level of the outlet baffle (before, it was filled to the top and failing to the surface), and the effluent is translucent (in a conventional system it's pitch black due to incomplete treatment). At this point I would definitely recommend it to anyone who's having trouble with their septic.
Then again I'm guessing my town taxes are more than yours as a result.
Ah, but just you wait! AFTER THE COLLAPSE, my "off the grid" septic will still be working, but your sewer pipes will be used as a means for THE BIG GOVERNMENT MOLES TO CRAWL INTO YOUR HOUSE!!!
(Sorry. Survivalist nonsense is done now. Brain is back online. Resume your happy day.)
I was renting a house once that had a septic system and roots grew into
the clay pipe. Yes!, clay pipe! Beat the shit out of me at the time. A good dose of copper sulphate cleared that all up though, but I still had to
call in the tanker truck to suck out the tank.
(yes, I know... this post really stinks)
We just paid nearly 100 dollars for the anual charge-it-up of our central AC.
If you're really looking to become legally certified to deal with Freon, you need to obtain an EPA Section 608 certification. Obtaining the stuff isn't what they're really concerned with. You have to prove to them that you are capable of capturing and recycling the stuff when discharging a system (as opposed to venting it into the atmosphere).
You have to take a test with an EPA-approved certifying organization, and that costs money. So basically you're not saving any money on DIY here unless you actually intend to go into the HVAC service business.
When I installed my system, I got around this problem by buying a system that was pre-charged. Basically they pump a whole lot of refrigerant into the compressor and condenser coil.
Actually they put too much in, so when you open up the valves it fills the rest of the system and the pressure is about right. With a pre-charged system you only need to evacuate the lines. This requires a vacuum pump, which I was able to borrow from the facilities group at my office. The pump has a built-in meter to check for leaks. After the lines are evacuated and tested, then you open the valves and let the refrigerant in.
For a "big" central system though, you probably won't be able to find one pre-charged. Mine is a "mini split" system.
Looks nice, Ford.
The reality is that if the lumber is not all rocking-chair-shaped and in good condition
they'll resale it again at close to full value. But it's not a total loss for you! :^)